I hiked the Hebridean Way carrying all my own camping gear and food. Although I had intended to wild camp, I soon discovered that unlike the West Highland Way, there is not a whole mass of other hikers en-route to chat with as you walk. This was fine – in fact it was great – but unless you find your own company scintillating 24/7, you may want to take refuge in some the lovely campsites along the way. I met some fascinating people, and drying our bog-sodden socks, taking a shower and charging my phone were an obvious bonus. As I was only staying for one night, it didn’t really matter what they were like.
Barra: Croft 183 This was a basic bunkhouse with a kitchen, lounge and crazy dog which loved to play football. Ian the owner was very helpful and for a few extra quid, picked me up at the airport, gave me a lift into Castlebay to get some supplies, and the following morning dropped me off at the start of the Hebridean Way on Vatersay.
South Uist: West Kilbride Campsite This campsite has a decent shower block and a campers kitchen with a washing machine. The owner was a very friendly chap. There is a cafe here but on Sundays it doesn’t open until 11am.
South Uist: Howmore Hostel (Gatliff Trust) You can camp in the grounds of the hostel and use the facilities. This is a beautiful building – an old Croftor’s cottage with an atmospheric kitchen, dining areas, hot showers and WIFI. It is one of three owned by the Gatliff Trust.
Benbecular: Shell Bay Caravan Park I can’t say much about this as a place to camp. It’s a flat, dreary patch of grass but the showers were good and the owners friendly. They offered me some tea after my truly crazy night sleeping with rain and a 40 mph wind belting my tent. The Dark Island Hotel is just down the road so you can get dinner and a beer if you so wish.
North Uist: Carinish – Moorcroft Holidays I loved this place – there is a cute campers kitchen, hot showers and a laundry room. It was a great place to meet fellow travellers as well as dry my bog-sodden socks. There are also some cosy looking hobbit homes and a bunkhouse but I think you’d need to book in advance. The views over the sea are beautiful. There is no shop or cafe here.
North Uist: Lockmaddy – Redburn House I knew there wasn’t anywhere to camp in Lockmaddy so I was planning to wild camp by the harbour but as I walked along the road, I spotted this B&B and it was just beckoning me in. It was damm good to have a bed for the night – breakfast was a bit disappointing as you had to help yourself in their kitchen (a fry up would’ve been good guys).
Bernaray: Gatliff Trust Hostel This sits overlooking the beach at the end of a two-mile walk along the road. It is a lovely old crofters cottage with a cosy atmospheric kitchen / dining area. I chose to camp in the grounds rather than stay in a dorm but you can still use the facilities.
Harris: Horgabost Campsite This campsite is situated next to a beautiful beach of white sands and turquoise sea. I arrived here after one of the most exhausting, challenging days of the trail, to the joyous moment of finding a fish and chip shop van at the entrance.
Harris: Drinishader – Minch View Campsite To be absolutely frank, this was little more than a bog sodden patch of grass and a makeshift shower room. However, I liked it here. If you want luxury it’s probably not for you but for a place to camp fo the night it is fine. I like the little old lady who ran it, and I had a good restful sleep on my soft mossy bed!
Lewis: Bowglass – wild camp I wasn’t really sure where to camp here so I asked a man I spotted near the roadside. He swept his arm across the fields which led down to the loch: “Well, this is my land… so you can camp wherever you want. Just pop up to the house if you need any water”. This was a relief. The wind was blowing in wildly from Shiphoirt Loch but it was a clear and beautiful night.
Lewis: Laxay – wild camp It took me a while to find a suitable spot as there seemed to be livestock occupying much of it, and on one side of the road there is a graveyard. – I didn’t want cows, sheep or ghosts lurking around my tent at night. I did finally find a field next to a house and I felt fairly safe there.
